Retinol for beginners: how dermatologists say to start
Retinol is one of the few skin care ingredients with real evidence behind it – and one of the easiest to overdo. Dermatologists' advice is consistent: start low and slow.
Retinoid or retinol?
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives. Retinol is the one found in over-the-counter creams and serums; stronger retinoids such as tretinoin need a prescription. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) advises beginners to start with the least intense formula they can find – and notes that over-the-counter labels don't always give the percentage.
A starting schedule
| Period | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| First weeks | Every other night, or two to three times a week | In the evening, on clean, dry skin. |
| If there is no excessive irritation | Gradually more often | Add one night at a time. |
| If skin is red, flaky or stinging | Less often | Moisturiser first, or a smaller amount. |
Based on dermatologists' advice published by the AAD.
- Use it at night. Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun.
- Wait after washing. One dermatologist quoted by the AAD suggests waiting 20 to 30 minutes after washing your face before applying.
- Use a small amount. A pea-sized amount for the whole face is the usual instruction on retinoid products and dermatology handouts; more does not work faster, it irritates more.
- Protect your skin by day. Shade, protective clothing and a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.
Check with a dermatologist first if…
- you are pregnant or trying to become pregnant – retinoids should not be used during pregnancy;
- you have significant redness or rosacea, or moderate to severe acne scarring;
- you have a darker skin tone and are prone to dark marks: irritation can trigger them, so starting slowly and moisturising matters even more.
